DIA 148 – El Monte Kazbek
7 Aug 2015
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DIA 148 – El Monte Kazbek

por | Publicado en: Bitácora, Fotos, Georgia | 1
The area around Mount Kazbek was designated a nature reserve by the Soviet government in 1979, and includes beech forests, subalpine forests and alpine meadows. Many of the plants and animals in the reserve are endemic to the Caucasus region.
The area around Mount Kazbek was designated a nature reserve by the Soviet government in 1979, and includes beech forests, subalpine forests and alpine meadows. Many of the plants and animals in the reserve are endemic to the Caucasus region.
Mientras publico este post ya me encuentro en el viaje hacia Azerbaijan.

Hace un calor insoportable en Tbilsi, ya he visitado algunos museos, fui a descubrir las partes mas notables de la ciudad y dejé de lado otras atracciones.

Pero no podía dejar de lado la region del Kazbegi.

Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება - Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount KazbeK. The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century. Its isolated location on top of a steep mountain surrounded by the vastness of nature has made it a symbol for Georgia. The 18th century Georgian author Vakhushti Batonishvili wrote that in times of danger, precious relics from Mtskheta, including Saint Nino's Cross were brought here for safekeeping. During the Soviet era, all religious services were prohibited, but the church remained a popular tourist destination. The church is now an active establishment of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church
Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება – Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount KazbeK.
The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century. Its isolated location on top of a steep mountain surrounded by the vastness of nature has made it a symbol for Georgia. The 18th century Georgian author Vakhushti Batonishvili wrote that in times of danger, precious relics from Mtskheta, including Saint Nino’s Cross were brought here for safekeeping. During the Soviet era, all religious services were prohibited, but the church remained a popular tourist destination. The church is now an active establishment of the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church
Estar en Georgia, haber pedaleado por el pequeño Cáucaso y no haber vistado el “Grande” sería un sacrilegio. La región mas cotizada, Svanetia, me queda muy lejos pero la region del Kazbegi, si bien en bicicleta me llevaria 4 días, está a pocos pasos de Tbilisi. Por ende, decido contactar una agencia de viaje y tomar una excursion de día entero.

Así me encuentro, de repente, transformado de viajero a turista. Sin valorarlo, pero la sensación me es espantosa. Me reciben con una botella de agua de bienvenida y un matrimonio de Estanbul, otro de Bahrein, una Ucraniana, el guía y yo, subimos al minibus que nos llevará a Stephansminda, el poblado base de dicha region.
La radio a todo volumen, el chofer charlando por teléfono y el ruido del motor me dificultan seguir todo cuanto el guía vaya comentando en un inglés bastante quebrado.
Llegamos al castillo e iglesia de Anamuri a orillas de un embalse. Diez minutos para vistarlo y sacar fotos. De tanto apuro se me pasa por alto una pequeña colina que me hubiese dado un enfoque panoramico del castillo, para sacarle una foto como aquellas que se ven en las guias de viaje o en cada postal de Georgia.
Nos pasan por un quiosco de souvenires, por las dudas. Jamas en mis 40 años de viaje he comprado ni siquiera uno.
Segunda parada una plataforma panorámica para sacarle fotos al paisaje. Bueno, la verdad que el panorama del “Grande Cáucaso” es espectacular e imponente. Observo los ríos y arroyos, e inclusive de cerca con atención y eh aquí una reconfortante sorpresa. Aguas cristalinas y cero vestigios de basura.
Apago mi cigarrillo por la mitad, debemos subir al micro que aun falta una hora de viaje.
Llegamos a Stephansminda, nos piden bajar del micro y pagar una tasa extra para un transfer en 4×4 hasta el monasterio de donde podremos también ver el Monte Kazbek. Obvio, no es obligación, podemos también subir a pie, pero ello llevaría dos horas de ascenso y no daría el tiempo. Pago.
Subimos por unos senderos que realmente son solo aptos para vehiculos toto terreno.
Que panorama se me presenta. Una meseta con una vista inolvidable y en la cumbre de la misma un monasterio al cual por no tener pantalones largos no puedo acceder.
Nos conceden 30 Minutos para vistar, pasear y distendernos. Gracias a la desobediencia logramos extender la media hora a 45 minutos. Bajamos y nos meten en un Restaurante. Obviamente que no me pido nada y si no fuera por el matrimonio de Estambul que me piden cortezmente de ser su invitado, sin poder rechazar tanta cordialidad termino comiendo una pequeñez.

The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century
The Gergeti Trinity Church was built in the 14th century
El viaje de regreso al mejor estilo de formula uno se me hace un calvario y si no fuera que luego de la tercer maniobra de adelanto por curvas sin visibilidad exploto, y amenazando de bajarme inmediatamente y mandar un reporte a la agencia, el chofer no hubiese disminuido la velocidad. El viaje prosigue mas tranquilo, al menos hasta entrar en la ciudad de Tbilisi donde la adrenalina vuelve a subir, pero antes de alcanzar los valores limites puedo descender cerca de mi hostal.

Prefiero arrepentirme de algo que he cometido que de algo que he omitido

Viajeros a Kazbegi: tómate un micro local, planifica dos días, lleva tu tienda y pasa una noche en la meseta. Debe ser una experiencia inolvidable. Ahora lo se yo también.

El monte Kazbek es un estratovolcán de 5.047 m altitud que se encuentra en Georgia, cerca de la frontera con la república de Osetia del Norte que forma parte de la Federación rusa. Es la cuarta cumbre de las montañas del Cáucaso, que tiene su cumbre más elevada en el monte Elbrus, y, es el segundo pico más alto en Georgia.

Es una hermosa cumbre glacial de moderada dificultad. Desde Georgia, el punto de partida de la ascensión está en la pequeña ciudad de Kazbegi, a unos 150 kilómetros de Tiflis, la capital. Desde Kazbegi, en dos días de marcha por el collado de Sabertse de 3.150 m y el glaciar Gergeti, se llega a un refugio a los 3.700 metros de altitud. Desde el refugio, una larga ascensión por la nieve y el hielo hacia el sur da acceso a la cumbre.

Fuente: Wikipedia

Ananuri was a castle and seat of the eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty which ruled the area from the 13th century. The castle was the scene of numerous battles.
Ananuri was a castle and seat of the eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty which ruled the area from the 13th century. The castle was the scene of numerous battles.
Ananuri was a castle and seat of the eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty which ruled the area from the 13th century. The castle was the scene of numerous battles. In 1739, Ananuri was attacked by forces from a rival duchy, commanded by Shanshe of Ksani and was set on fire. The Aragvi clan was massacred. However, four years later, the local peasants revolted against rule by the Shamshe, killing the usurpers and inviting King Teimuraz II to rule directly over them. However, in 1746, King Teimuraz was forced to suppress another peasant uprising, with the help of King Erekle II of Kakheti. The fortress remained in use until the beginning of the 19th century.
Ananuri was a castle and seat of the eristavis (Dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty which ruled the area from the 13th century. The castle was the scene of numerous battles.
In 1739, Ananuri was attacked by forces from a rival duchy, commanded by Shanshe of Ksani and was set on fire. The Aragvi clan was massacred. However, four years later, the local peasants revolted against rule by the Shamshe, killing the usurpers and inviting King Teimuraz II to rule directly over them. However, in 1746, King Teimuraz was forced to suppress another peasant uprising, with the help of King Erekle II of Kakheti. The fortress remained in use until the beginning of the 19th century.
The larger Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli) was built in 1689 for the son of Duke Bardzem. It has a central dome and richly decorated facades, including a carved north entrance and a carved grapevine cross on the south façade.
The larger Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli) was built in 1689 for the son of Duke Bardzem. It has a central dome and richly decorated facades, including a carved north entrance and a carved grapevine cross on the south façade.
Ananuri Castel - Within the complex, amongst other buildings, are two churches. The older Church of the Virgin, which abuts a tall square tower, has the graves of some of the Dukes of Aragvi. It dates from the first half of the 17th century, and was built of brick. The interior is no longer decorated, but of interest is a stone baldaquin erected by the widow of the Duke Edishera, who died in 1674.
Ananuri Castel – Within the complex, amongst other buildings, are two churches. The older Church of the Virgin, which abuts a tall square tower, has the graves of some of the Dukes of Aragvi. It dates from the first half of the 17th century, and was built of brick. The interior is no longer decorated, but of interest is a stone baldaquin erected by the widow of the Duke Edishera, who died in 1674.
Ananuri Castel. The larger Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli), built in 1689 for the son of Duke Bardzem. It is a central dome style structure with richly decorated façades, including a carved north entrance and a carved grapevine cross on the south façade. It also contains the remains of a number of frescoes, most of which were destroyed by the fire in the 18th century.
Ananuri Castel. The larger Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli), built in 1689 for the son of Duke Bardzem. It is a central dome style structure with richly decorated façades, including a carved north entrance and a carved grapevine cross on the south façade. It also contains the remains of a number of frescoes, most of which were destroyed by the fire in the 18th century.
The area around Mount Kazbek was designated a nature reserve by the Soviet government in 1979, and includes beech forests, subalpine forests and alpine meadows. Many of the plants and animals in the reserve are endemic to the Caucasus region.
The area around Mount Kazbek was designated a nature reserve by the Soviet government in 1979, and includes beech forests, subalpine forests and alpine meadows. Many of the plants and animals in the reserve are endemic to the Caucasus region.
let's clean our souls, pater!
let’s clean our souls, pater!
Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება - Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri (the left tributary of the river Terek), at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount Kazbegi.
Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება – Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri (the left tributary of the river Terek), at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount Kazbegi.
Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება - Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri (the left tributary of the river Terek), at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount Kazbegi.
Gergeti Trinity Church (Georgian: წმინდა სამება – Tsminda Sameba) is a popular name for Holy Trinity Church near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is situated on the right bank of the river Chkheri (the left tributary of the river Terek), at an elevation of 2170 meters, under Mount Kazbegi.
Mount Kazbek is associated in Georgian folklore with Amirani, the Georgian version of Prometheus, who was chained on the mountain in punishment for having stolen fire from the gods and having given it to mortals. The location of his imprisonment later became the site of an Orthodox hermitage located in a cave called “Betlemi” (Bethlehem) at around the 4000 meter level. According to legends, this cave housed many sacred relics, including Abraham's tent and the manger of the infant Jesus
Mount Kazbek is associated in Georgian folklore with Amirani, the Georgian version of Prometheus, who was chained on the mountain in punishment for having stolen fire from the gods and having given it to mortals. The location of his imprisonment later became the site of an Orthodox hermitage located in a cave called “Betlemi” (Bethlehem) at around the 4000 meter level. According to legends, this cave housed many sacred relics, including Abraham’s tent and the manger of the infant Jesus
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  1. Stefan
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    esto hay que hacerlo en bici ;))

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